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Homegrown cookbook authors highlight local food



Three Malaysian authors shine a spotlight on the vast panoply of dishes available here.



Malaysia: Recipes From a Family Kitchen

Author: Ping Coombes Publisher: Orion Publishing Group Price: RM119.90


Malaysian-born Ping Coombes did the country proud when she bagged the British MasterChef title in 2014, and now she’s doing it again withher first cookbook, which features treasured recipes from her homeland. The beginning of the book includes loads of useful information about herbs, spices and ingredients that are ubiquitous in our neck of the woods, undoubtedly with the goal of acclimatising newbies to the intricacies of what’s in Malaysian food. The recipes in the book are largely homegrown favourites like roti canai, murtabak, gado-gado and sambal ikan bilis, all of which are popular here but aren’t really as well known to global audiences, so it’s great to see someone with Coombes’ standing championing these humble dishes. In other instances, Coombes takes liberties with recipes, simplifying more elaborate techniques and creating easier-to-execute versions instead. Like the banana spring roll, which is obviously a healthier take on the traditional pisang goreng. Then there are some original recipes, like Coombes’ spice-infused version of fish and chips and a delicious-looking curry popcorn. I love the way each of the recipes are prefaced with interesting back stories, like the tale of Coombes’ grandmother’s favourite breakfast dish that inspired the creation of Popo’s gold blend ice cream in deep-fried buns. The food styling is also very down-to-earth and evocative of how the dish would actually look in real life, as opposed to the Photoshopped, too-pretty-to-eat versions that you often see in some cookbooks. But perhaps the best thing about this book is that there’s plenty of recipes you’ll be just aching to try, so it’s likely to become a much beloved, dog-eared, oil-splattered tome that you return to again and again over the years. – Abirami Durai




Amazing Malaysian: Recipes for Vibrant Malaysian Home Cooking

Author: Norman Musa Publisher: Square Peg, a Vintage imprint Price: RM119.90

Norman Musa has lived in England for the past 21 years, but the award-winning chef still yearns for the food of his homeland. In 2006, he opened Ning, his first Malaysian restaurant in Manchester, England. Ever since, Norman has been proudly flying the Malaysian culinary flag, acting as an ambassador of Malaysian food. In this ambitious cookbook, Norman has compiled recipes he has picked up and perfected over the years, including many inspired by his beloved late mother (who is addressed in a touching tribute in the introduction of the book). The recipes are largely homegrown dishes made using time-honoured methods, like prawn fritters, traditional fish curry and fried spiced chicken, all of which look mouth-wateringly delicious. There is also plenty of charm in the interesting stories that Norman regales readers with in the introduction to his recipes. Like the seven pearls his mother discovered when she went oyster-hunting or his YouTube sensation, anchovy egg fried rice recipe. The tips and tricks he includes in his recipes are also useful and will no doubt add to the kitchen hacks of most modern home cooks. The exhaustive list of pantry staples included at the back of the book encompass basic must-haves in the Malaysian kitchen with loads of pictures to boot, and will prove essential for those who can’t tell their cumin from their fenugreek. Ultimately though, if you’re new to Malaysian food or just want to nail traditional perennial favourites, this will be just the book to get you started on your local culinary adventure. – AD




Nonya Heritage Kitchen: Origins, Utensils and Recipes

Author: Ong Jin Teong Publisher: Landmark Books Price: RM99

In his second book on heritage food, Ong Jin Teong digs deep into history and cultural practices to tell the story of Peranakan cuisine through the cooking utensils, arguing that these utensils from all over the world, particularly China and India, have shaped Nonya cuisine literally and metaphorically. He is suggesting that the irons for making Kuih Kapit harks back to the Dutch Knieperties waffle irons and the Kuih Bahulu pan could have a Portuguese origin. Whether you agree with him that the Roti Jala spout was invented by a crafty nonya, it makes interesting reading and provides food for thought. It’s not all about Nonya cooking either – Ong crosses boundary and features recipes that are not normally regarded as being Nonya, like Wantan Mee and Putu Mayam. God is in the details and the retired professor of Electrical Engineering writes in a patient, unhurried voice, retelling history in great detail, paying attention to how each utensil works. What makes this book so charming is the seamless and graceful weaving of the mundane yet practical nitty-gritties of cooking, utensils, history and recipes into a very readable whole, making it both an entertaining read and a useful and informative recording of the past. This is made more enchanting by the beautiful photographs done in a restrained and sensitive style that gives it a Zen appeal. And I am grateful that someone finally publishes a recipe on Sesargon, that sandy childhood snack that we have nearly forgotten. This book will go down as a keepsake. – Julie Wong


 
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